RACHEL ON THE ROAD: SLEEPY, QUIRKY CLARKSDALE

After two great Music Cities, there was a change in tempo as Rachel and Bill took to the Interstate again. Heading about 76 miles and crossing the state border into Mississippi, their next destination was the small town of Clarksdale.

The town might be small, but it’s been home to some big names, like John Lee Hooker, Ike Turner, Muddy Waters, and Sam Cooke, all of whom grace the town’s Walk of Fame.

Arriving for a one-night stay on a Sunday, Rachel and Bill discovered a sleepy town. Away from the bustle of Nashville and Memphis, Clarksdale seems a world away, especially on a Sunday. Their home for the night was the Traveller Hotel, built in the 1920’s when it was used by railway works for one-night stopovers. The hotel was very quirky, but spotless, with great owners, who made friendly hosts.

Having arrived on a Sunday, Rachel and Bill found that everything was pretty much closed. As a small town, it’s easy to walk around, and they stumbled upon Bluesberry Café, a little shack housing a music bar down a back alley where ‘Watermelon Slim’ was singing and playing his slide guitar.

A very interesting gentleman, a former member of MENSA and a great musician who until Covid had been travelling the world covering Festivals and concerts and has been producing albums since 1973, the last one being in 2020.

Although closed, they visited the Ground Zero Blues Club, partly owned by Morgan Freeman, and boasting a reputation as the best Blues club in America.

The famous Blues club is next to the Delta Blues Museum (also closed on a Sunday!), which would have been fantastic to visit.

Throughout the town, there is amazing wall art at every turn, with a particular favourite piece of Rachel and Bill’s found on the huge side wall of Ground Zero Blues Club. In fact, a guy was working on it whilst they were there; one man, his bike, and – of course – his music blasting.

Continuing to walk along the street, they saw two guys fixing the front door of an art shop, and asked if there was anywhere open where they could have a drink. The two guys replied that there wasn’t…but please come in and join us for a drink. Over the next few hours, Rachel and Bill talked to the owner Stan and his friend, sharing interesting stories about music and their world travels. Stan briefly disappeared before coming back with a dish of chicken he had just cooked, which was lush!

The Southerners are famous for their hospitality, after all. Stan Street has travelled the world as a musician and has made Clarksdale his home. He bought an empty building and has created a venue for art lovers, artists, and musicians, called Hambone Art & Music shop and the aptly named ‘Hopeless Case Bar’ inside.

Earlier in the day, thinking ahead to dinner Rachel and Bill had asked at the hotel who mentioned a restaurant that should be open, but it transpired that they’d had a very busy Saturday night and had given the staff Sunday off. Luckily, they were advised that there may be a pop-up BBQ, where a young couple who have just started their business set up their BBQ in the back yard of the restaurant, authentic, very cheap, no frills, just delicious.

Clarksdale is quite unique and the people are so laid back and very friendly, just make sure if you visit, it isn’t a Sunday!

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