DISCOVERING THE HEARTBEAT OF NEW ORLEANS

DISCOVERING THE HEARTBEAT OF NEW ORLEANS

Whitney Plantation

As we left Natchez behind and made our way to New Orleans, we decided to stop at the Whitney Plantation. After some research on which plantation house to visit, we chose Whitney because it stands out as the only museum in Louisiana dedicated exclusively to the history and realities of slavery. 

Unlike many plantation tours that focus on the grandeur of the "Big House," the Whitney Foundation centers its exhibits on the enslaved people who lived and worked on the plantation. Moreover, the site operates as a non-profit, making it a more meaningful stop during our trip.

Located in Wallace, Louisiana, the plantation was easy to find, just an hour's drive from New Orleans, making it a convenient stop on our journey. We're so glad we decided to visit.

A Unique Historical Experience

The Whitney Plantation has served as a backdrop for significant films such as Django Unchained and 12 Years A Slave. Despite this cinematic history, the plantation remains focused on educating visitors about slavery rather than glorifying the past. Visitors see the elegant "Big House," but unlike most plantation tours, the focus is not on the former owners. Instead, the stories of the enslaved people take center stage.

We opted for a self-guided audio tour, which truly brought the history of the place to life. The plantation also offers guided tours on select days, and staff members are available around the grounds to answer any questions. The Whitney Plantation originally produced sugar, indigo, and rice from 1752 until 1975, and we were astonished to learn that two original slave cabins were still occupied as late as 1975!

Moving Memorials: The Children of Whitney

One of the most powerful aspects of our visit was the "Children of Whitney" statues scattered throughout the museum grounds. These haunting statues depict enslaved children who were subjected to the brutalities of plantation life. Many of these children were forced into adult responsibilities around the age of ten, a sobering reminder of the horrors they faced.

Another moving part of the plantation was the Hall of Honor, a memorial consisting of two-sided granite walls, about two meters high, inscribed with the names of enslaved men, women, and children. Reading these names and seeing their ages was heartbreaking. This tribute ensures that their stories are not forgotten.

Field of Angels: A Heart-Wrenching Memorial at Whitney Plantation

The Field of Angels honours the memories of 2200 enslaved children. It is a beautiful and serene space, with statues and inscriptions that commemorate the names and ages of children, including many who passed away in infancy. A statue of an angel cradling a child symbolizes the lives of the smallest and most vulnerable victims. Each name inscribed on the memorial walls represents a young life lost to unimaginable hardship, disease, and neglect.

Why You Should Visit Whitney Plantation

We left Whitney Plantation with a greater understanding of the horrific realities of slavery and the strength of those who endured it. The museum offers an educational experience without being "touristy." If you're driving to or from New Orleans, this is a perfect place to stop for a couple of hours. Even if you’re staying in New Orleans without a car, transportation options are available through coach tours. We highly recommend making time for this important, thought-provoking visit.

Our 3-Day Adventure in the Big Easy

Our USA Deep South Road trip culminated in the vibrant and lively city of New Orleans—a destination that had long been on our bucket list. Known as the “Big Easy” for its laid-back atmosphere, this city is a melting pot of culture, history, music, and of course, incredible food. We stayed at the beautiful Bienville House, a boutique hotel located in the heart of the French Quarter, perfectly positioned for exploring all that this unique city, perched along the mighty Mississippi River, has to offer.

Day 1: Hop-On, Hop-Off & Beads on Trees

Getting Our Bearings with the Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus
To kick off our adventure in the typical ‘Wrighty Way’ and to get a feel for the layout of the city, we started with the ever-popular Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tour. This is always our go-to on trips like this, and New Orleans did not disappoint. The live commentary was excellent, with each guide offering their own take on the city’s rich history and lively culture. No two rides were the same, as every guide had unique stories and insights to share.

During one of the rides, we encountered something that initially looked like a pile of white bikes near a busy intersection. Upon closer inspection, we learned they were "Ghost bikes," a sombre yet powerful memorial to cyclists who had lost their lives at that very spot. The sight was a poignant reminder of the personal stories and history intertwined throughout the streets of New Orleans

Another emotional moment came when we visited a memorial dedicated to the victims of Hurricane Katrina. A striking sculpture made by Sarah Heller from a dead oak tree stood at the site, designed to resemble a house perched in the tree. Constructed from scraps, it symbolized the resilience of the people who survived one of the most devastating natural disasters in U.S. history

St. Charles Avenue’s Bead Trees

As we travelled along St. Charles Avenue, something else caught our eye—trees draped in colourful strings of beads. These “Bead Trees” are a quirky remnant of the city’s iconic Mardi Gras parades, where floats toss beads into the crowd. Many of the beads end up tangled in the branches of trees, creating a vibrant and whimsical display that is so characteristic of New Orleans’ fun-loving spirit.

Day 2: Canal Streetcar, French Quarter & Bourbon Street Magic

Exploring the City by Streetcar
New Orleans is famous for its historic streetcars, and we were eager to experience them firsthand. We started with the Canal Streetcar, which is a great way to explore the city while sitting back and enjoying the sights. The five-and-a-half-mile journey took us from one end of Canal Street to the other, offering ample opportunities to hop on and off to explore the various stops along the way. From local eateries to charming neighbourhoods, there was so much to see.

Another must-ride line is the St. Charles Streetcar, which is one of the oldest continuously operating streetcar lines in the world, dating back to 1835. We picked it up at the corner of Canal Street and Carondelet Street, and the 45-minute journey (if you don’t get off) took us past universities, museums, and plenty of great food stops. If you’re looking for an affordable way to see the city, these streetcars are a steal—tickets are just over a dollar!

Walking Around Jackson Square & Café du Monde
New Orleans is one of the most walkable cities in the world, and we spent much of our time on foot. Jackson Square quickly became one of our favourite spots. The area is brimming with life—street musicians fill the air with the sounds of jazz, and horse-drawn carriages clip-clop by, adding to the old-world charm. Just across the street is the famous Café du Monde, which has been a staple since 1862.

Open 24/7 (except on Christmas Day), Café du Monde is best known for its beignets, square-shaped French-style doughnuts generously dusted with powdered sugar. We couldn’t resist stopping in for a coffee and a plate of these delicious treats, though be prepared for a wait—it gets busy, especially during peak hours.

A Culinary Adventure: Where to Start with New Orleans Food!

When it comes to food, New Orleans is a feast for the senses and deciding where to start is no easy task! The city’s rich culinary traditions are a flavourful blend of Creole, Cajun, and Southern influences. Whether you're a foodie or just someone who loves great food, New Orleans will spoil you for choice.

Gumbo & Jambalaya
You can't visit New Orleans without trying a bowl of gumbo, a hearty, stew-like dish packed with bold flavours. It often includes a mix of seafood, chicken, and sausage, simmered with okra and seasoned with the “holy trinity” of Creole cooking—onions, bell peppers, and celery. The smoky and slightly spicy kick makes it a comforting, must-try dish.

Another local favourite is jambalaya, a traditional rice dish that's often compared to Spanish paella. The rice is cooked with a mix of meats like chicken and sausage or seafood like shrimp and crawfish, and it’s flavoured with Creole seasonings. Each bite is a mouthful of warmth and spice that embodies the soul of Southern cooking.

Oysters
If you're a fan of seafood, New Orleans is the place to indulge in some of the freshest oysters you'll ever taste. From chargrilled oysters, cooked over an open flame with butter and garlic, to raw oysters served on the half-shell, there are countless ways to enjoy this local delicacy. At the French Market, you can even watch expert shuckers in action, popping open oysters with ease right in front of you.

Po-Boys
Another iconic dish you can’t miss is the Po-Boy, short for “poor boy.” This classic New Orleans sandwich is anything but ordinary. Po-Boys are served in long, crusty French bread and packed with an array of fillings. The most traditional options include fried shrimp, crispy oysters, roast beef dripping in gravy, and even crawfish. What makes the Po-Boy extra special is the toppings—expect a generous helping of lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, and a slathering of remoulade or mayo to tie it all together. Every bite is a satisfying mix of crunch, flavour, and texture.

The French Market
One of the best places to experience the full range of New Orleans cuisine is the French Market, located near Jackson Square. The market is a bustling hub of food stalls and vendors selling everything from freshly shucked oysters to juicy Po-Boys. Whether you’re craving a traditional Creole dish or want to explore the more Cajun side of things, you’ll find it here.

In addition to savoury dishes, the market also offers a variety of juice bars, sweet treats, and even cooking demonstrations. Watching fresh oysters being shucked is an experience in itself, and the vibrant market atmosphere makes it easy to lose yourself in the flavours and aromas of the Big Easy. The choices are endless, and every dish tells its own story of New Orleans’ rich culinary heritage

Bourbon Street & Royal Street
After fueling up at Café du Monde, we ventured deeper into the French Quarter and found ourselves on the famous Bourbon Street. The energy on Bourbon is electric—everywhere you look there’s live music, bars, and street performers. Jazz clubs pump music into the streets, creating a festive atmosphere that’s impossible to resist. Many of the bars have rooftop seating with cast-iron balconies, making them the perfect people-watching spots. From these elevated perches, we saw a colourful parade of characters that only New Orleans could offer!

In contrast to the high-energy vibe of Bourbon Street, Royal Street runs parallel and offers a more refined experience. Lined with antique shops, art galleries, and fine dining restaurants, Royal Street is a treasure trove for those seeking a quieter, more sophisticated side of New Orleans. We loved exploring the side streets here, where hidden gems awaited around every corner

Day 3: Shopping, Steamboat Cruise, and a Swamp Tour Finale

Canal Street Shopping
We kicked off our last full day by exploring Canal Street, known for being one of the widest streets in the United States at a whopping 171 feet across. Not only is this street a hub for the famous Mardi Gras parades, but it’s also a shopper’s paradise. The area is lined with department stores, boutique shops, and outlets that cater to a wide range of tastes. From high-end retailers to quirky local shops, we are not great shoppers so skipped the shopping

River Cruise on the Steamboat Natchez
Next, we headed to the Woldenberg waterfront, just a short walk from our hotel, to board the Steamboat Natchez. There’s something so timeless about seeing a city from the water, and this two-hour cruise down the Mississippi River was one of our trip’s highlights. The views were stunning as we glided along, taking in the city’s skyline and historic riverbanks from a new perspective.

The live commentary on board was both funny and informative—our guide had a knack for weaving in local history with plenty of humorous anecdotes. It’s a relaxing way to soak in the sights of New Orleans, and for those who want to extend the experience, there are also evening dinner and jazz cruises available. While we stuck to the daytime tour, we couldn’t help but think how magical the river must look at night, with the sound of live jazz floating through the air.

Bayou Swamp Tour
With our flight back to the UK scheduled for later in the evening, we still had time for one last New Orleans adventure: a Bayou Swamp Tour. The mysterious, misty wetlands surrounding New Orleans are something you just have to see when visiting the area. We booked a Pontoon boat tour, opting for a more leisurely ride through the swamp to stay dry, though we did see some high-speed airboats whizzing past, offering a more exhilarating alternative.

The Bayou is like stepping into another world. The waters are calm, dark, and teeming with life. We spotted alligators, herons, turtles, and more as our knowledgeable guide shared fascinating facts about the local ecosystem. The swamp is a serene and hauntingly beautiful place, and it was the perfect way to wind down our trip.

New Orleans’ Hidden Gems: Parks, Music, and More

The Green Spaces
Although we were busy exploring the city’s bustling streets and attractions, we also made time to enjoy some of New Orleans’ peaceful green spaces. Palmer Park is a lovely spot where festivals and concerts are often held, and it features a family-friendly playground for those traveling with kids.

Another noteworthy park is Armstrong Park, a sprawling 32-acre space named after the legendary jazz musician Louis Armstrong. Within the park, you’ll find Congo Square, a historic site where enslaved and free people of colour once gathered in the 19th century to express their culture through music and dance. Armstrong Park is also home to the Mahalia Jackson Theatre, which hosts performances by the New Orleans Philharmonic Orchestra, the Ballet Association, and the Opera Association. It’s a cultural oasis in the heart of the city and a great place to relax or catch a live performance.

The Rhythm of the Streets
Of course, no mention of New Orleans would be complete without talking about its music scene. From the moment we arrived, the rhythm of the city was all around us. Whether it was street musicians performing jazz on nearly every corner, impromptu brass bands leading second-line parades, or even kids drumming on plastic buckets with an innate sense of rhythm, music is the heartbeat of this city.

One of our favourite memories was stumbling upon a group of kids in the French Quarter, using nothing but overturned buckets to create a mesmerizing beat. It’s clear that the people of New Orleans are born with music in their souls.

Conclusion: New Orleans - A City Bursting with Life

Three days in New Orleans was enough to give us a taste of everything this incredible city has to offer, but not nearly enough time to do it all! Whether we were wandering through the historic streets of the French Quarter, savouring a bowl of gumbo in the French Market, or taking in the sights and sounds from the Mississippi River, New Orleans proved to be a city full of life, colour, and hospitality.

There’s something here for everyone: from art galleries and museums to sprawling parks and the vibrant nightlife on Bourbon Street. And let’s not forget the food—jambalaya, po-boys, beignets, fresh oysters—it’s all delicious and uniquely New Orleans. The city pulses with energy, its people are friendly, and live music is never far away. It’s a place you can return to again and again, and still find something new to discover.

We only stayed three nights, but we left with a lifetime of memories. New Orleans truly is the Big Easy, where you can relax and let the good times roll

If you're inspired to visit the USA and the Deep South, contact us or call Rachel to discuss

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